Friday, September 16, 2011

Ganpati Bappa...Morya!!



This past Sunday I had the pleasure to not only attend but participate in the final and main event of the Ganpati Festival here in Pune. The Ganpati Festival is a ten-day celebration of the Hindu god Ganesh, who's domains include wisdom and general prosperity! First a little background on the festival itself though. In our first few days in Pune, leading up to festival, we saw dozens of temporary platforms under construction around the city, each preparing to house its own Ganesh idol. Once the festival began, the platforms came to life, with vast differences in how each community-sponsored platform decided to worship their Ganesh. While many were ornate, peaceful tributes to the elephant-headed god there were also some very...creative displays. These included a few that apparently imagined Ganesha as quite the raver, with bumping music and flashing lights , one with a Ganesh made entirely out of cork and a perplexing platform that had a live-action performance on stage that involved some sort of exchange between Adolf Hitler and Gandhi. While we only saw a few of these platforms in our area of Pune, there were apparently several hundred of these displays scattered across the city, each waiting to be immersed in the local river following the procession.

The procession itself gave one the impression of a complex crossover between New Year's, the Macy's Day parade and what I can only imagine Woodstock would have been like if there had been more Indians and less "free love." The marchers wind down a major thoroughfare in Pune known as Laxmi Road, known for its shopping and the strange phenomenon that prompts Westerners to pay four times the actual price of a good and still think they got a good deal. On procession day though, the pirates of Pune close up shop and the street floods with people, to the point that we had to move in a twenty-person long conga line to make any progress up or down the street. While the original plan had been to camp out on the second floor of a restaurant owned by the mother of one of our Indian buddies, by the time we arrived the place had become so jam packed with patrons that only two members of our group could go up at a time, and still might not be able to see. This left the rest of us to settle for street level viewing, which turned out to be so bad thanks to the blessedly poor prevalence of the tall gene among Indians.

As the pictures hopefully demonstrate, the part of the parade that we got a see consisted predominantly of musicians, specifically drummers, and even more specifically drummers who like to play load, which, to be fair, basically goes without saying. The drummer bands were essentially split into three parts, the biggest section being bass drummers who had massive drums strapped around their stomach (they occasionally swung these around while playing and I can only imagine how they avoided severe whip lash each and every time). The second smaller section consisted of what were basically snare drummers, with one lead performer (resident baller of the group) playing a different rhythm every other 4 counts and the rest providing a echo. Finally there were one or two "performers" whose instructions I can only hazard to guess were "Here are some hammers-now continue to wail on this circular piece of metal as hard as humanly possible until otherwise notified." Needless to say this was not an event for the faint of eardrums. Occasionally the bands were accompanied by flag bearers carrying tall poles and moving in time with the drumming. I found these guys particularly exciting because half the time I could only see the flags and not the bearers, which gave me the distinct impression of watching a medieval army march of some kind.

After a little while of just standing on the sidewalk watching the parade go by, we realized that the pace of the marchers had gotten progressively slower until finally the parade had basically come to a complete halt. No one seemed perturbed by this, and the drummers kept on drumming, but none of us could figure out why everything had stopped. Then another Alliance student realized that a large number of former spectators were now participants and dancing in the middle of the parade with the drummers. Seeing as absolutely no one had stepped in to stop them, we soon determined that this was just another part of the Ganpati experience, and after clearing it with an Indian buddy we decided to become a part of it! First only a few of us, but then everyone, piled over the barriers separating sidewalk from street and joined in the revelry taking place in the middle of the parade. Fortunately, the Indians already getting their street dancing on were happy to have us and eagerly invited us to dance with them. Being young, impressionable Americans looking to have a good time we were only too happy to oblige. The drummers were spectacular and really kept the excitement level up despite the parade remaining at a standstill. Eventually people started getting hoisted on to other peoples' shoulders as part of the general ecstasy/madness, and after a failed attempt at getting on my friend Taylor's shoulders (though the reverse worked fine as the pictures attest) an eager middle-aged Indian man stepped in to provide a helping hand, or in this case set of shoulders. I'll admit to being a little skeptical of getting on the shoulder's of a man I had never met, let alone speak English to, but with a more than helpful boost from those around me, next thing I knew there I was above the crowd. While terrifying is probably the first word that comes to mind on reflection of my time up there, it was also a ton of fun and hugely exhilerating- definitely recommened for the next time you find yourself in a parade in a foreign land with access to a willing pair of unknown shoulders.

While many of us would have been way more than satisfied with the procession after our impromptu dance party, our Indian buddies insisted that there was one more element that we just couldn't miss. If you've skipped ahead to the pictures than you might have already guessed what this "element" entailed- namely, a lot of red powder known as gulal. This lovely substance has the awesome property of sticking to clothes and skin incredibly easily and then being almost impossible to wipe off without just spreading it even more (sort of like a real life, though less painful, version of the multiplying treasure in Bellatrix's vault). Coming back to my preview from the last post, this is where I got the day-long nickname of Red Beard, for fairly apparent reasons (The nickname "Wow, you looked like you mauled a deer" also had a lot of play). While I initially avoided the allegedly heavily-staining substance (which turned out to be totally false, washed right out!) one of the kind powder throwers noticed my reluctance and naturally sent a huge clump of the stuff soaring over the crowd and right into my face. At that point resistance was clearly futile, so I joined in with the rest and began hurling the stuff wantonly in the general direction of my fellow Americans. After we had all gotten our fill (covering?) of the gulal, we made our way off of Laxmi Road, tired and wide-eyed but deeply, deeply satisfied. While I'm disappointed I'll miss the next major celebration in Pune, Diwali (which the office tells me is basically Indian's version of Halloween), I'm confident that the Ganpati procession is a memory I'll take with me for the rest of my life and one of the major highlights of my trip-- and I haven't even been here one month yet! In the interest of time (as well as lack of creativity) I'm leaving the pictures without captions for right now, but hopefully they give at least a small sense of the chaos, beauty and sheer ecstasy of the Ganesh procession. Ganpati Bappa... Morya!!

Monday, September 12, 2011

A Turn to the Tummy: Part I

Before I begin, let me preface this post by acknowledging that I had originally planned to write about/ post pictures of the incredible experience that was the last day of the Ganapati festival (preview: the nickname "Eric the Red Beard" became quite popular) but without access to an internet connection that allows me to upload more than one picture an hour I figured I'd save that post for another day. In its place will be a post consisting entirely of matters pertaining to the real benefactor of any vacation, international or otherwise, the tummy (known among the more academic circles as the stomach).

Although we here at the Alliance carry the tremendous burden of having to get our own lunch during the school week, the pain is eased somewhat by having the ability to try a different restaurant each and every day. Thanks to the abundance of restaurants on the two main roads closest to our home campus of Fergusson College, we could very well go a month or more without eating at the same place twice. To add to the excitement of variety, almost none of us have yet deciphered the many Indian dishes yet, meaning that even with an English menu in hand we oftentimes have little to no idea what might come out once we place our order. In my case, this meal-time roulette has been largely positive, which probably has more to do with the high quality of Indian food than the luck bestowed upon me by my Irish heritage, but its still nice to think that my ancestors have got my back. Thanks to my host family's helpful hints and some tasty trial and error, I've been able to familiarize myself with a handful of dishes and as well as decode some of the still mysterious dishes. But before I get into the specifics of my culinary conquests, I feel I must lay down some background information on the Indian dining experience.
For one, as you might expect from a predominantly Hindu land, vegetables are a staple of many an Indian recipe. That's not to say that meat is absent from the restaurant scene by any means (though you'll be hard pressed to find a good burger or steak around these parts), only that vegetables form the substance of many an Indian menu and diet. In fact, restaurants typically broadcast whether they are pure-veg (no meat products at all in the kitchen, though eggs are allowed), standard veg (meat isn't served but the kitchen isn't necessarily meat-free) or non-veg (for the meat lovers of course!) Even at the pure-veg restaurants there's never a shortage of worthy dishes, though to be fair many restaurants list slight variations in dishes as separate orders (like with or without butter, or with or without cheese) that would typically be presented in a more compact manner in the states. Despite this, there are still an astounding array of vegetable dishes, ranging from the humble aloo bhaji (a simple potato dish) to the fan favorite palek paneer (spinach, varying in consistency from soup-like to solid depending on where you go, and what's often described as Indian "cottage cheese" though in my opinion it bears more resemblance to a cross between mozzarella and feta). In between there are many dishes that combine vegetables and cheese with some form of bread, as in the pancake-like uttapa or any of the numerous meals served with chippati/roti (a round bread sort of like a pita only flatter and less doughy). Americans could learn a lot from the vegetable-dominated diet of many an Indian, but that's not to say that they don't have some unhealthy eating habits here.
Enter ghee. Ghee is described here in India as "purified butter" which essentially means removing all the water from butter so that what you have left behind is little more than refined fat. There doesn't seem to be many things that ghee wouldn't be appropriate to put on from the Indian perspective, though putting it on breads and in thick, chili-like dishes is particularly popular. At home, we always have some ghee on the table, though neither myself nor my roommates typically indulge in the rich, golden liquid, much to the dismay of our host-dad's elderly mother, Ai (aa-yee).
Salt is another Indian favorite. As my mom knows all too well, I try to limit my salt intake as much as possible. Sadly, even though Indian cuisine has access to many a spice, which are still used in abundance, generous helpings of salt are still omnipresent. Just this evening my host mother noted that she had failed to put as much salt in our eggplant bhaji as she normally would, but she didn't think to fix it because no one had complained about the lack of flavor! (See, it still tasted wonderful Gouri!)
Though slightly healthier than the abundant use of ghee and salt, Indians' affinity for tea probably wouldn't win the doctor's stamp of approval either. But unlike America's coffee addiction, the problem isn't too much caffeine, but rather a love of super sweet tea. During our orientation, we had frequent tea breaks (partly out of Indian custom but mostly to stave off unconsciousness thanks to the brutal jet lag) and I think just about everyone agreed that what we were drinking could just as easily have been liquid sugar disguised as chai tea. Since arriving at my home stay, the tea hasn't been quite as sweet, but Gouri tells us that her father used to have at least three teaspoons (!) of sugar for every cup of tea.
Looking at the length of what I've already written I can only hope that a few survivors have made it through the sea of words above. For the sake of those champions and all those lost along the way, it seems only fair to reserve further tummy for another post on another day. Expect lots of gushing about the food at my host family's house, a few highlights of Pune's finest eating establishments, and an assortment of photos of all the American chains that have somehow managed to shoehorn their way into Indian culture (McDonald's with no Big Mac?!?) Thanks again for reading, and I promise more visual aids in the future!

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Indiana Jonesing

While I previously admitted to having very few expectations prior to arriving in India, one I definitely did not expect was how overwhelmingly beautiful the landscape of this country can be when not touched by its rapid urbanization. I got my first hint at such a phenomenon when we left Mumbai for Durshett (sp?) where our orientation would take place. By the time we were an hour outside the city, the half-finished towers and crowed slums had given way to large stretches of rolling green hills. By the time we were just outside Durshett, the terrain had become so dominated by vegetation that it almost seemed like we had been transported a completely different country. Unfortunately, during our first couple days in Durshett we weren't really given the opportunity to explore our verdant surroundings, instead having to focus on the obviously unimportant task of how to live and adapt to our new life in a foreign country.
On our last full day in Durshett we were finally given a reprieve from such trivialities as safe travel tips and cultural standards when we went on an early morning hike to a tribal village located on a nearby hill. While the rain of the Indian monsoon season continued to mount its case against the Pacific Northwest for most consistently depressing weather, we Alliance students were undeterred. Fortunately the rain rarely strengthened beyond a moderate drizzle, and as you'll see in the pictures (!) below, the scenery, both natural and man-made, proved more than sufficient in taking our minds off the weather.

(Sorry, slight delay in these pictures, but they'll be here soon!)

Only a few days later, after arriving in Pune and meeting up with my wonderful host family (Hi Gouri and Neelesh!), my roommates and I were taken on an another hike, this one much more rigorous than the first however. After driving about an hour or so outside the city (and into the wonderful realm of smog-free air), we arrived at the foot of a mountain who's Marathi name escapes me at the moment, but who's English translation literally means "Weird Mountain." And while I couldn't find any features of the mountain that were out of the ordinary, the hike itself was certainly unlike anything this desert-dweller had ever encountered before. For one thing, we had barely made it a quarter way up the mountain when the rain started hitting our face at what felt like 90° angles and the wind gusts ramped up to at least 40mph, completely negating any minute feelings of regret at having missed out on all the excitement of Hurricane Irene back in the states. To compound the unfortunate weather, the clouds descended such that we couldn't even get a sense of when we'd reach the top, since we could never really see more than 30ft above us, as seen in the pictures below. I have to be honest here and say that I did harbor some doubt as to whether or not we should continue, particularly when it felt like the wind didn't need to get much stronger to blow me off the side of the mountain all on its own. But the six of us marched onwards and upwards, taking in the radically changing landscape as it went from rocky and grass covered to lush and tropical in the matter of a few dozen meters or so. Not long after we observed this change in the environs, we ascended a particularly steep, stair-like part of the trail only to emerge in front of a large stone door that had seemingly grown right out of the face of the mountain. Behind the doorway stood a stone staircase that I momentarily thought might take me all the way up to heaven to meet God and Led Zeppelin. Needless to say, the payoff couldn't have been any greater and at this point I'll stop talking (typing?) and simply let the pictures speak for themselves! (Well after the meticulously crafted captions of course.)

The beginning. Note the already very low clouds...

If you squint you can see the waterfalls!

Visibility was at a premium on Weird Mountain

Pretty spectacular view but imagine how great it would be with added sunshine!

Almost at the top...luckily there were kindly informative arrows lying around just in case.
Living out a real life version of Indiana Jones/ Lord of the Rings? Check.

Quite possibly what you might see before entering heaven

The clouds graciously got out of the way a bit on the way back down!